Maternity Monday: Pleated skirt

Since I am keeping up so well with Scrap Sunday, I thought I could introduce another type of themed posts: Maternity Monday where I want to show you all the lovely maternity items I have made for myself. (as of today: 2)

For all those of you who are now rolling their eyes or even laughing because they aren’t quite as impressed by my blogging consistency as I am myself, I would like to point out that your behaviour is rather rude and lacks any basis. Definitely. And besides, I never said, I would post every Sunday.

Back to Maternity Monday. Considering that I am already 28 weeks and that there might not be that many more pregnancies, I want to make garments that can easily be changed into normal clothes later.

You might remember the sleeveless top I made a few weeks ago. The neckline and the armholes weren’t great, I have since improved the neckline by stretching the band more but I am afraid, I will only redo the armholes once I open the side seams to alter it to a non maternity shirt.

Still thinking of making another one with narrower shoulder straps but not sure. After all, British summer doesn’t require a huge number of sleeveless tops. I just think they will be more easily changed back to normal than anything with sleeves.

So much for the update, but today I wanted to show you a skirt that I made for the baptism.

I had this lovely fabric that just called for bold pleats. I am normally not too much into orange (maybe lately a bit) or blue but I think this colour combination is just perfect to bring out my varicose veins in their full beauty.

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So I mismeasured my “waistline” (somewhere under the bump), multiplied it by three, calculated how many 4cm pleats I could make out of it, added seam allowance, realised that I would just need twice the whole width of the fabric, cut the 1m fabric in half to get a 50cm long skirt and sew the two pieces on one side together.

I then started folding the fabric into boxed pleats and closed the second side up to almost the top. I finished off those 5cm of open edges by folding them in twice and top stitching. Then I tried it on again and realised that it was actually too wide. So I had to cut some excess fabric off and made just a normal pleat on the side rather than a full boxed one. I was a bit under time pressure as I made it a day before leaving.

IMG_3598I added a dark blue, rather wide “waist”band and decided then that I would prefer an elastic for extra security. Some people might find it slightly inappropriate if I lost the skirt half way through the baptism. So I added an extra wide elastic band and used three hooks for the closure. I wanted to use buttons at first but I was worried that the button holes would tear as I made the elastic rather tight.

I had also bought some orange satin bias binding to put on the hem, or maybe just a bit above. I think that would look lovely. But I asked the colour expert and she said – much to my surprise – “no”. This might have just been the usual contradiction to whatever I suggest but it did leave me so insecure and confused that I decided to leave it for now 🙂

Maternity Rock blau orangeJust look at that beautiful colour matching with the nails, sandals and varicose veins!

Maternity Rock blau orange 2Perfect look for swing dancing.

When it comes to altering the skirt for a post pregnancy body I will definitely take it fully apart. That wrong pleat at the side wouldn’t do the quality of the fabric any justice.

I guess, it will go up to my real waist, get a proper zip, probably still a wide waist band to make it look a bit like a big belt and maybe, just maybe an orange line just above the hem. Oh, and i got the tip to do the pleats only in the front and back but leave them out on the side to avoid huge hips. Not that I would need that. And I seriously doubt that I will still remember that when the time comes 🙂

 

 

 

The trauma of the Fashion Course

Right, this is going to be a long one:

I have mentioned it before, but for those who do not listen properly, last summer I had realised that I will suddenly have lots of time during the week (I guess we can file that under “bad planning”) and I looked for a once a week sewing course that would finish with some kind of certificate rather than the ones I had done so far. All I could find was a Fashion course and to at least skip level 1, I worked hard, well I dug out old samples from all those courses, cut them nicely, stuck them on black card, ironed the presentable clothes I had produced so far, took my knitting photo book (to show off my brilliant sense for colour combinations and design skills ????) and went to the interview. And was accepted in level 2.

The course went over 6 months and it was about designing, pattern cutting and a bit of sewing (not as much as I wanted). It is really interesting how I fall immediately into old patterns – week by week I had to drag myself there, week by week I told myself that I had to take it more seriously and that next time I would really fill out all the paper work at the end of the day…. or at home at least, that I would do my homework with 100%,…. and week by week I did not do it 🙂

The aim of the course was to choose a celebrity and an event (from a list) and to design and make a dress for that person and that occasion in standard size 12. And to include a historical detail in our design, to be researched at a wedding dress exhibition at the Victoria and Albert museum.

So I spent a whole week of half term searching the internet to find a suitable celebrity. Note: I was the only one in the class who did not get totally excited by the idea of choosing a celebrity and the only one who did not even have at least one idea during that lesson. Anyway, I decided on the actress Michelle Williams as she seems to be into all colours and 60s dresses. The whole point of the celebrity business was to make sure that we were creating  a dress that will not only suit the person but also match their personal taste.  As my event I chose a charity event where cocktail or evening dresses could be worn – to make sure I could design a short dress 🙂

Next we had to come up  with 5 designs, actually drawn into our sketch book and to choose the one we would be making. At this point I was really close to quit. I do not do drawing, unfortunately. And it is hard to tell, if the drawings are mine or those from my 5 year old.

Anyway, I decided to have a more practical –  box ticking – approach.

In the end, it can’t be about the individual taste of my teacher or examiner it is a technical task or rather list of tasks: I wanted / needed to design a short dress, 60s style, any colour really, rather not patterned. My researched historical detail was embroidery, repeated in several places on a otherwise very simple wedding dress (no photos or sketches allowed, this was all I could remember 🙂 ) I intended to replace embroidery with knitting – after all this would really be the reason for a celebrity to come and ask me to design a dress for her (this and my amazing sense of colour combination). Last but not least, I needed to add a few more technically challenging bits as a simple sleeveless A-line dress might look best but it will not reflect any skills which is clearly needed if I wanted to achieve good marks. So I added some piping between top and skirt and sleeves. Long sleeves to be able to repeat the knitted decoration from the hem on the cuffs.

In the meantime, we did a lot of sample sewing and pattern drafting in class.

So in theory lots of sheets to fill out. Which I never did. I had a very slim folder 🙂

But over the Easter holidays it just had to be done. I had to sit down and catch up not only on paper work but also on missing home work. And I made some extra samples, kind of matching my own project. For example I did a series of round hems as I would have a round hem myself.IMG_3432

In fact, I was spending so much time on my folder that both my children wanted one too. So we had to buy two folders (pink and blue, silly question), and they put lots of stuff in it. IMG_3433

Oh, and I have almost forgotten or rather repressed the fabric shopping trip. My teacher, my class mates (they would deserve a post on its own but knowing me, it would turn into something extremely funny to read for many but if it ever got into the wrong hands….. no, we rather keep that one unwritten…. lets just say that it is unlikely that I keep in touch with anybody, although most were actually lovely ladies). Anyway, the shopping trip. We all went to Brixton where you can find extremely cheap fabric. I am still a bit wondering if a celebrity would wear an extremely cheap fabric for the Oscars.

Anyway, I was very determined to find an orange fabric for my dress. I think orange is very 60s. And I needed one more colour. Maybe pink? But that would be too sweet and not enough edgy. Possibly turquoise/greenish. Something like my scarf really 🙂

IMG_1268Ok, in an ideal world I would want all three colours. But maybe, just maybe not for a celebrity cocktail dress. For that scarf I got frequent comments in the class, especially from one only black wearing lady (“you and your colours”). Ok, back to the girls shopping trip (you see, I am not very familiar with this type of shopping). I chose immediately an orange wool crepe (glad I found a material that I could live with and was still cheap yet (apparently) expensive looking.

And right next to it was a bluish green. Ideally I would have wanted something more towards blue. But I took it. Definitely more risky than the pink.

The next step was now to find the right yarn for the knitted decoration. And I have to admit, I did at some point wonder if the bluish green had been the right choice for my purpose. But you see, at this point, I started to take it more seriously. After all, I had paid over a 1000£ for the class, so I should actually aim for a good mark (BTEC Level 2 –  not that this would correspond to anything ever in Austria, probably a Wifi course, really)

And I also regretted to have announced hand knitted decoration. With all that nursery saving, blanket loosing and course work catching up, it was a rather silly idea. But too late.

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So here we have a great purply fuchsia. I think it is an a-ma-zing colour combination (sorry for the dark picture). I just remember now, I went to John Lewis with my fabric samples and was looking around for a good yarn. And then there was this male shop assistant with the most amazing stripy vest. Clearly a man with good sense of colour. So I asked him his opinion. When he finally understood that I am not looking for the same colour but for one to complement them both he said: Well, orange and green have both yellow in it so the opposite colour would be purple. And he showed me something that was very close to what I wear in my scarf 🙂 I was very pleased to hear such a good scientific reason for my intuition… But not for Michelle Williams, nor for an elegant cocktail dress.

white: very 60s. But too much daytime.

purple/black/metallic shine. Well. It looked better online, when I ordered it.

dark grey/silver shine. Perfect. I had initially black as a save option in my head but my dear friend in my knitting class (the one which can get equally obsessed about little details) suggested dark grey and she was spot on. Much softer than black. And I am quite happy to have found that shiny yarn (Lana Grossa Lace Lux) to give it that extra special evening touch.

For the actual pattern I made a small version of the Camino Bubbles. I made a sample and I took pictures from the actual blocking process for my lovely folder, doing everything I can to get extra points after having been lazy for 5 months 🙂

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In the meantime, in class we were already working on our patterns and calico versions for the dress and then the day came, where we had to start making them.

I was determined to  really take my time and do everything properly this time. And I have to say I am rather pleased with myself as I really managed to do so. It took ages to prepare the piping properly but it was well worth it. It is a lovely detail and I will definitely use piping more often in future.

IMG_3431And can you see how perfectly the seam at the side matches? The one between the two colours? There is an invisible zip hiding (lengthwise of course). The second invisible zip in my life. The first is in my folder. With the seams 1 mm apart (but at that stage I was also pleased)

I have also used the same bias binding that I had used for the piping for the inside of the hem. Stupidly I forgot to take a picture of it. It is one of my favourite details. No one can see that contrasting colour on the inside but I know it is there 🙂

Ok, this is really getting long now but I am just trying to sum up 6 months of work (could have possibly posted more often, hmm) – I have probably lost 90% of my readers by now but then it is their problem, as they are not going to see the pictures of the final dress 🙂

Now please remember, we had to do the dress in a size 12 and my model isn’t actually a size 12. Please do not tell her, that it doesn’t really fit her. She was so proud that she managed to squeeze into it, even if it was only thanks to a sudden 12 weeks chocolate aversion.

IMG_3420Especially, don’t tell her how it looks from behind. She tried so hard to pull in her tummy and not to breath that it would be rather cruel to show her the truth. And really, she is a bit hormonal lately. Lets just keep this as a secret between you and me. And lets focus on the dress anyway. This is a blog about me crafting and not about weight issues. Or the importance of ironing.

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I personally think the dress would look much better without sleeves but remember I kind of needed them to show that I am perfectly capable to mount sleeves. And this is actually an other example of me taking all the time that is needed and to do it properly and faultless. Which means a lot to me,  as I tend to rush things a little.

As you have seen before, the knitting had been properly blocked to the right size and even in a slight curve to make sure it would fit perfectly along the curved hem.

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As I said before (I think), I needed a sleeve with cuffs to be able to repeat the knitting on the hem somewhere else  (to perfectly transition my chosen historical detail) and the bust line was already taken by the piping. So I opted for bishop sleeves, if you want to know the correct term for it.

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Has all the effort paid off? I think so. On my anonymous feedback form after the class presentation (this one, I did not take too seriously) she actually wrote that she wants the dress in her size. And she gave me a “distinction” which will still have to be confirmed by the external examiners.

In retrospect I am quite happy with my own performance from the point where I took it seriously. I decided I wanted a good mark and did my best (kind of) to get it. But I honestly wonder why I am unable to do that right from the start. Unfortunately, I can not perform without serious time pressure. Never could and most likely never will.

And whilst I wasn’t initially interested in learning too much about designing and pattern cutting I think now that I have actually learned a few useful techniques and wonder in fact if I shouldn’t look more into pattern cutting. Just this morning I made a pattern for a dress for my daughter. I tried to use some of the newly acquired skills however as she has a completely straight upper body, not everything would have made sense so I did a mixture of freestyle and rules. The calico(!) version tells me at least that the shape will fit and we will see how the end result will turn out.

But back to the “retrospect” part. I do wonder what to do with the dress now. It has been a lot of effort for something that I can not wear myself. As a matter of fact, I am not a size 12 at the moment. I might one day. But I am really not too keen on the sleeves. Should I sell it? To whom and where? And for how much? Any suggestions are more than welcome. And if you are still with me, sorry for the length and thanks for reading. I am feeling much better now 🙂

 

 

 

 

New year, new ideas, new projects

I know, I know, the new year is not that new anymore, but I am honestly working on these new projects (spoiler alert: bags of various shapes, sizes and purposes) since a couple of weeks, I am just awfully behind with posting. So lets make the first step today.

One of my lovely friends had seen the yoga bags taking shape whilst I was working on my very first ones and wanted one as a gym bag. Together we agreed that the shape of the yoga bag is not ideal if you do not actually carry around a yoga mat… or a trombone I guess. So I made a bag for her which had  square, well probably rectangular, sides and was shorter than the yoga bags.

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I kept the long strap from side to side but added very last minute (I even had to open the lining again) two handles as I thought a bag of this shape and size might be wanting to be carried more like a pretty handbag (my friend later disagreed, but then we both don’t really know what a bag thinks).

I also made an extra easily washable cotton bag for the sports shoes (so that my lovely pretty bag does not get dirty 🙂 )

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Inside I used polyester lining for once – it just seemed to be more suitable than cotton. Not sure why though. And if you spy with your little eye something pink on pink you might notice the simple slip pocket I added to keep some important belongings separated from the main sports mess.

I am quite happy overall, maybe I should have added a fancier pocket.

And best of all, I could hand over that bag as a birthday present (request a long time before Christmas) just about one week after the birthday of said friend. Not bad, considering that I have just finished a Christmas present (for 2014 in case you were wondering)  2 days ago.

Ok, sports bag done, there will be an office bag, a crafts bag, a book bag and a yet undecided purpose one – so keep looking for new posts.

Scrap Sunday: Phew, done (well, not really)

IMG_3014The scrap skirt is officially done -well, apart from the hook, can’t find them, might have to buy new ones. I might have donated them to a sewing class, thinking that I will never ever sew a skirt.

I have only ever been working on it on Fridays, so it took for ages.

I think we can file this one under “a few lessons learnt”. It is not bad but also really not what I had in mind, so lets recapitulate:

I had this burgundy, very fine corduroy, a huge piece of scrap from a previous project. I wanted to make a skirt with 8 panels, each cut on the bias to show off the lines of the corduroy when they meet on each of the eight seams. Great idea I think, well not idea, great remembering from skirts that I have owned many kilos ago.

I did not have quite enough fabric to do that and it had been pointed out to me that since the corduroy was so fine, no one could actually see the lines. So I cut it straight. Big mistake as now I have an awkward seam in the middle of the front for no reason which actually blocks the fabric from falling nicely. Once I realised I had to cut it straight, I should have gone for 6 panels to avoid that seam.

I wanted too many things at the same time, nice A-line skirt with godets, cheekily showing of some kind of patterned fabric. Oh, and the whole skirt rather short.

The proportions of the whole thing are wrong, the corduroy can’t even hold the A-line shape as it’s seams are broken by the godets.

And the godets? Don’t get me even started. Too small, or rather too short. And maybe too many.

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On the other hand, I still love the colours and their combination. I also love the unplanned overlocked hem. Remember I only wanted to neaten the edge and then turn once, to keep the godets as long as possible and it actually looked rather nice. I did consider to do that again in blue but actually my blue thread was not quite the same tone so I kept the white edge.

And the blue lining is really cool, I think. Remember, you can’t see it but I know it is there 🙂

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Will I ever wear it? No, most likely not. I guess, this would have been a good calico project, I know now how not to do it and what I could have done better (I am now even thinking of a simple  A-line, with one big pleat in the front, more or less from the top, and that is where the patterned fabric is hiding – but that might also be a bit too extreme – I will definitely not try that one with nice fabric, but 6 panels with longer godets would definitely look good), so I do not regret the project as such but it is a real shame that I have wasted that cute patterned fabric as I only had one fat quarter bought on my weekend away in Oxford a couple of weeks ago. Clearly, I should have found a better use for it.

Anyway, with or without hook, I consider this project done and can move straight to the next one. Which has it’s deadline next Friday but I should really have it finished by Monday. Which happens to be tomorrow. I don’t want to reveal too much yet but you might consider wearing sunglasses next time you are looking for new posts on here 🙂