The trauma of the Fashion Course

Right, this is going to be a long one:

I have mentioned it before, but for those who do not listen properly, last summer I had realised that I will suddenly have lots of time during the week (I guess we can file that under “bad planning”) and I looked for a once a week sewing course that would finish with some kind of certificate rather than the ones I had done so far. All I could find was a Fashion course and to at least skip level 1, I worked hard, well I dug out old samples from all those courses, cut them nicely, stuck them on black card, ironed the presentable clothes I had produced so far, took my knitting photo book (to show off my brilliant sense for colour combinations and design skills ????) and went to the interview. And was accepted in level 2.

The course went over 6 months and it was about designing, pattern cutting and a bit of sewing (not as much as I wanted). It is really interesting how I fall immediately into old patterns – week by week I had to drag myself there, week by week I told myself that I had to take it more seriously and that next time I would really fill out all the paper work at the end of the day…. or at home at least, that I would do my homework with 100%,…. and week by week I did not do it 🙂

The aim of the course was to choose a celebrity and an event (from a list) and to design and make a dress for that person and that occasion in standard size 12. And to include a historical detail in our design, to be researched at a wedding dress exhibition at the Victoria and Albert museum.

So I spent a whole week of half term searching the internet to find a suitable celebrity. Note: I was the only one in the class who did not get totally excited by the idea of choosing a celebrity and the only one who did not even have at least one idea during that lesson. Anyway, I decided on the actress Michelle Williams as she seems to be into all colours and 60s dresses. The whole point of the celebrity business was to make sure that we were creating  a dress that will not only suit the person but also match their personal taste.  As my event I chose a charity event where cocktail or evening dresses could be worn – to make sure I could design a short dress 🙂

Next we had to come up  with 5 designs, actually drawn into our sketch book and to choose the one we would be making. At this point I was really close to quit. I do not do drawing, unfortunately. And it is hard to tell, if the drawings are mine or those from my 5 year old.

Anyway, I decided to have a more practical –  box ticking – approach.

In the end, it can’t be about the individual taste of my teacher or examiner it is a technical task or rather list of tasks: I wanted / needed to design a short dress, 60s style, any colour really, rather not patterned. My researched historical detail was embroidery, repeated in several places on a otherwise very simple wedding dress (no photos or sketches allowed, this was all I could remember 🙂 ) I intended to replace embroidery with knitting – after all this would really be the reason for a celebrity to come and ask me to design a dress for her (this and my amazing sense of colour combination). Last but not least, I needed to add a few more technically challenging bits as a simple sleeveless A-line dress might look best but it will not reflect any skills which is clearly needed if I wanted to achieve good marks. So I added some piping between top and skirt and sleeves. Long sleeves to be able to repeat the knitted decoration from the hem on the cuffs.

In the meantime, we did a lot of sample sewing and pattern drafting in class.

So in theory lots of sheets to fill out. Which I never did. I had a very slim folder 🙂

But over the Easter holidays it just had to be done. I had to sit down and catch up not only on paper work but also on missing home work. And I made some extra samples, kind of matching my own project. For example I did a series of round hems as I would have a round hem myself.IMG_3432

In fact, I was spending so much time on my folder that both my children wanted one too. So we had to buy two folders (pink and blue, silly question), and they put lots of stuff in it. IMG_3433

Oh, and I have almost forgotten or rather repressed the fabric shopping trip. My teacher, my class mates (they would deserve a post on its own but knowing me, it would turn into something extremely funny to read for many but if it ever got into the wrong hands….. no, we rather keep that one unwritten…. lets just say that it is unlikely that I keep in touch with anybody, although most were actually lovely ladies). Anyway, the shopping trip. We all went to Brixton where you can find extremely cheap fabric. I am still a bit wondering if a celebrity would wear an extremely cheap fabric for the Oscars.

Anyway, I was very determined to find an orange fabric for my dress. I think orange is very 60s. And I needed one more colour. Maybe pink? But that would be too sweet and not enough edgy. Possibly turquoise/greenish. Something like my scarf really 🙂

IMG_1268Ok, in an ideal world I would want all three colours. But maybe, just maybe not for a celebrity cocktail dress. For that scarf I got frequent comments in the class, especially from one only black wearing lady (“you and your colours”). Ok, back to the girls shopping trip (you see, I am not very familiar with this type of shopping). I chose immediately an orange wool crepe (glad I found a material that I could live with and was still cheap yet (apparently) expensive looking.

And right next to it was a bluish green. Ideally I would have wanted something more towards blue. But I took it. Definitely more risky than the pink.

The next step was now to find the right yarn for the knitted decoration. And I have to admit, I did at some point wonder if the bluish green had been the right choice for my purpose. But you see, at this point, I started to take it more seriously. After all, I had paid over a 1000£ for the class, so I should actually aim for a good mark (BTEC Level 2 –  not that this would correspond to anything ever in Austria, probably a Wifi course, really)

And I also regretted to have announced hand knitted decoration. With all that nursery saving, blanket loosing and course work catching up, it was a rather silly idea. But too late.

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So here we have a great purply fuchsia. I think it is an a-ma-zing colour combination (sorry for the dark picture). I just remember now, I went to John Lewis with my fabric samples and was looking around for a good yarn. And then there was this male shop assistant with the most amazing stripy vest. Clearly a man with good sense of colour. So I asked him his opinion. When he finally understood that I am not looking for the same colour but for one to complement them both he said: Well, orange and green have both yellow in it so the opposite colour would be purple. And he showed me something that was very close to what I wear in my scarf 🙂 I was very pleased to hear such a good scientific reason for my intuition… But not for Michelle Williams, nor for an elegant cocktail dress.

white: very 60s. But too much daytime.

purple/black/metallic shine. Well. It looked better online, when I ordered it.

dark grey/silver shine. Perfect. I had initially black as a save option in my head but my dear friend in my knitting class (the one which can get equally obsessed about little details) suggested dark grey and she was spot on. Much softer than black. And I am quite happy to have found that shiny yarn (Lana Grossa Lace Lux) to give it that extra special evening touch.

For the actual pattern I made a small version of the Camino Bubbles. I made a sample and I took pictures from the actual blocking process for my lovely folder, doing everything I can to get extra points after having been lazy for 5 months 🙂

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In the meantime, in class we were already working on our patterns and calico versions for the dress and then the day came, where we had to start making them.

I was determined to  really take my time and do everything properly this time. And I have to say I am rather pleased with myself as I really managed to do so. It took ages to prepare the piping properly but it was well worth it. It is a lovely detail and I will definitely use piping more often in future.

IMG_3431And can you see how perfectly the seam at the side matches? The one between the two colours? There is an invisible zip hiding (lengthwise of course). The second invisible zip in my life. The first is in my folder. With the seams 1 mm apart (but at that stage I was also pleased)

I have also used the same bias binding that I had used for the piping for the inside of the hem. Stupidly I forgot to take a picture of it. It is one of my favourite details. No one can see that contrasting colour on the inside but I know it is there 🙂

Ok, this is really getting long now but I am just trying to sum up 6 months of work (could have possibly posted more often, hmm) – I have probably lost 90% of my readers by now but then it is their problem, as they are not going to see the pictures of the final dress 🙂

Now please remember, we had to do the dress in a size 12 and my model isn’t actually a size 12. Please do not tell her, that it doesn’t really fit her. She was so proud that she managed to squeeze into it, even if it was only thanks to a sudden 12 weeks chocolate aversion.

IMG_3420Especially, don’t tell her how it looks from behind. She tried so hard to pull in her tummy and not to breath that it would be rather cruel to show her the truth. And really, she is a bit hormonal lately. Lets just keep this as a secret between you and me. And lets focus on the dress anyway. This is a blog about me crafting and not about weight issues. Or the importance of ironing.

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I personally think the dress would look much better without sleeves but remember I kind of needed them to show that I am perfectly capable to mount sleeves. And this is actually an other example of me taking all the time that is needed and to do it properly and faultless. Which means a lot to me,  as I tend to rush things a little.

As you have seen before, the knitting had been properly blocked to the right size and even in a slight curve to make sure it would fit perfectly along the curved hem.

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As I said before (I think), I needed a sleeve with cuffs to be able to repeat the knitting on the hem somewhere else  (to perfectly transition my chosen historical detail) and the bust line was already taken by the piping. So I opted for bishop sleeves, if you want to know the correct term for it.

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Has all the effort paid off? I think so. On my anonymous feedback form after the class presentation (this one, I did not take too seriously) she actually wrote that she wants the dress in her size. And she gave me a “distinction” which will still have to be confirmed by the external examiners.

In retrospect I am quite happy with my own performance from the point where I took it seriously. I decided I wanted a good mark and did my best (kind of) to get it. But I honestly wonder why I am unable to do that right from the start. Unfortunately, I can not perform without serious time pressure. Never could and most likely never will.

And whilst I wasn’t initially interested in learning too much about designing and pattern cutting I think now that I have actually learned a few useful techniques and wonder in fact if I shouldn’t look more into pattern cutting. Just this morning I made a pattern for a dress for my daughter. I tried to use some of the newly acquired skills however as she has a completely straight upper body, not everything would have made sense so I did a mixture of freestyle and rules. The calico(!) version tells me at least that the shape will fit and we will see how the end result will turn out.

But back to the “retrospect” part. I do wonder what to do with the dress now. It has been a lot of effort for something that I can not wear myself. As a matter of fact, I am not a size 12 at the moment. I might one day. But I am really not too keen on the sleeves. Should I sell it? To whom and where? And for how much? Any suggestions are more than welcome. And if you are still with me, sorry for the length and thanks for reading. I am feeling much better now 🙂

 

 

 

 

Welcome back

It’s been a while, I know, and in fact, two of my readers have been complaining about my recent silence. Ok, they have mentioned that they haven’t received any new posts from me and I like to think that this was actually a complaint.

So, why have I been so quiet? Because I was really busy campaigning. My children were lucky enough to enjoy two respectively one year in the best nursery in the world (after having enjoyed good times at the connected children centre) and unfortunately it has been decided to basically destroy this amazing setting. Before I go on, you can have a look on my other blog which is badly looked after but at least it gives you some starting information, if you really want to know about it. Have I been able to change anything? Well, there was no chance to turn things completely around  but hopefully we will be able to keep the memory up to bring it back when the wind has changed (and there are nationwide promises to increase the budget for early years).

At least, I have been able to annoy a few “decision makers” and make them work a bit to answer 6 pages of questions,  I have now a facebook account (threw overboard all my concerns, did it without reading the T&Cs, might have sold my children, who knows, got a lettre from 10 Downing Street (sounds exciting, content is really not worth mentioning), managed to have my picture at the same page as the queen in a local newspaper (cases not related obviously, but the article was so badly done that I have to look for something positive about it 🙂 ) and my children are now proud owners of clip boards with important lists in it.

But back to the purpose of this blog: knitting and sewing. I have actually been busy as well, finished my Fashion course – I really only work under pressure, believe me the Easter holidays were all about getting that folder done – again, the children were impressed and have now folders too.

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I made a baby blanket which got lost (or stolen) on its way to my new niece. I have finally accepted the loss and moved on, started my first square on baby blanket Nr2 yesterday.

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I have been working on a few smaller projects, birthday presents from scrap yarn and fabric.

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As all these things deserve their moment in the spot light I will be a good girl and write lots and lots of posts in the next few days. Or weeks. So watch this space 🙂

Scrap Sunday – World Costume Day

I know, I know, a little later than usual, but it is still Sunday.

It was World Books Day this week, so time to get dressed up as favourite book character. Which is quite clearly mistaken by some as favourite TV character. I saw a lot of Disney princesses and Superheros plus one Yoda.

But I was lucky.  I asked them: What’s your favourite book?

Child No 1: Room on the broom (We haven’t read it in ages but ok.  It is a good book, also costumewise)

Child No 2: Blue.

We did a couple of times: -No your favourite BOOK. -Blue. (or “green” as clearly mum did not seem to be satisfied by blue)

I explained: – Look, for example P wants to be the witch from Room on the broom….

– I want to be the dragon, I want to be the dragon.

Great. Matching outfits. In different schools though 🙂

Technically, the witch costume is not exactly a scrap project. I had to buy just about everything. Well, the yellow bow (hiding behind the hair) and the ginger plait are made of scrap wool (see, I am still knitting). And we had the hat since ages.

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Obviously I could have made a simple purple skirt but I wanted to use the opportunity to practice piping as I will need it for the final garment in my Fashion Course.

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The dragon however is entirely made of scrap.

IMG_3297I have used the left over from the carrot costume  and some other red and orange fabric scraps.

First of all I cut out some sets of red triangles plus some strong interfacing. I sewed them together and turned them inside out. I also made a stuffed grey horn similar to the one the dragon in the book has on his head.

For the main “body” I used a hood pattern and just elongated it at the back into a long tail. I pinned all the spikes and the horn on one side and stitched the two body parts together. I decided to line it with some dark red left over lining as it makes the whole costume just so much more sustainable.

IMG_3295As you can see, the horn does not quite stand up but the dragon was happy and so was I.

I did not want to make a full costume because… well it would have been far too much work really but also we needed something practical to be able to play in the nursery and its garden.

And in case if you were wondering why he carries a flag, obviously this is not a flag but a portable fire to breath out fire. Because this is what dragons do.

I am extremely pleased with the result of the whole costume making. The child inside misses the carnivals of my childhood I guess.

It has been very little work (apart from the skirt) with maximum outcome plus the children could help with some of  it. Obviously the skirt is too elaborate for a costume only but it was a good opportunity and I made it to be worn on many occasions.

 

 

Scrap Sunday: Post Valentine scrap

A couple of days ago, my daughter found in her mess carefully chose the hairband that I had made in 5sec out of some left over from her shirt and dress.

This one, you might remember it: IMG_2272detailI love it but I really should have done it properly. It is the sewn version of one of these  (I am obviously talking of the yellow and the pink one in the front and then again the red a bit more up and to the right.)

IMG_2142sIn both cases it is a long strip that twists into a spiral naturally because one side is much longer than the other.

In the knitted one, this is done by increasing (or decreasing, depends if you are knitting from bottom to top or top to bottom), in the fabric one, I gathered the bottom edge.

Anyway, I thought it would be a good idea for a Scrap Sunday post to finally do it properly. Initially I meant to use the same stretchy jersey but then I thought, I will try a woven fabric instead to see the difference and just took some red cotton.

Just one thing before we start the series of pictures: I meant to do a tutorial but after finishing the rose, I realised that I would actually make a few things differently, so calling it tutorial is a bit silly, but I would still like to share the journey of making a rose with you and it will be up to you to do those few things differently (surprise, surprise, but I am too lazy to make another one whilst simultaneously taking pictures of it 🙂 )

First, you need to …… sorry, journey, not tutorial, so

First, I cut a stripe of fabric on the bias to make sure it gets a bit stretchy.

To do this, I took a piece of fabric (doesn’t have to be square),….

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folded it along the diagonal in half to get a 45 degree angle.IMG_3195

Then I cut my stripes (through both layers), parallel to the folded line, about 8cm wide.IMG_3196

I then placed the two strips on the short sides together in a V-Shape (will be a straight strip when opened up) and sew along that short side.IMG_3197

I opened it to iron the seam flat open and to get a longer bias strip. It was about 50cm long, which is a bit too short really. And obviously one single strip without seam would have been better but it is a project to use up scrap yarn. IMG_3199

I folded the fabric lengthwise in half and trimmed the short sides. A slight curve seemed ideal for me, not sure why.IMG_3200Initially, I meant to zigzag with the wrong sides together and just work from there and to use a contrasting thread to show things better in a potential tutorial (really because the machine was threaded like this).  But halfway through the zigzagging I decided to make the right side to wrong side and and left a gap to be able to turn it inside out.IMG_3203Why? Because the edges looked suddenly silly and because I have a cool turning tool which I wanted to show off.

IMG_3204After turning the strip inside out I ironed it flat to get a sharp edge on top of my “petals” rather than the fluffy mess of the initial jersey rose. Just to see how that looks.

Then I stitched straight  next to the seam with the longest stitch length and started to gather the fabric by pulling one of the threads. I left one end rather ungathered as I wanted to roll the rose  at the beginning tightly to get something like a still closed rosebud. IMG_3205I started to roll up the strip and kept securing it with stitches going back and forth through all the layers. That was quite tricky as my fabric strip had gotten quite thick at the bottom because of the seam allowance that was now inside my strip. So, if I do this next time, I will either zigzag on the outside or stitch together with a straight line and trim the seam allowance before turning.

In any case, the result looks pretty good, you can almost not tell the difference 😉IMG_3211At least not from the front / the top. Obviously the bottom is quite messy and depending on the use (other than some picture taking from the pretty side only), one might have to hide that mess somehow.